A Paris-Based Wine Educator Reveals Her Favorite Local Places to Eat and Drink

by  Vicki Denig | Jan 9, 2024
Courtesy of Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards/Groupe JOULIE

Paris certainly isn’t short on great places to eat and drink, though after living here for five years I’ve noticed that tourists tend to frequent the same spots over and over. While most “must-visit” lists tend to feature the same restaurants and wine bars — and often rightfully so, as many of these places definitely merit the attention — there are a plethora of lesser-known spots that are just as good, if not better.

Below, I’ve rounded up a number of my favorite places to eat and drink like a local — yes, some entries will have made it onto other lists here and there, but their inclusion is simply because I feel that they offer a more local, neighborhood-y vibe and aren’t swimming in visitors. Add one (or a few) to your next Paris must-visit list and profitez-bien!

The Best Restaurants to Eat Like a Local in Paris

Le Rouge Limé, 167 Bd Voltaire, 75011I’m probably biased as this is my neighborhood bistro, but it’s truly better than any random brasserie I’ve walked into within a 10-minute radius. Optimally situated on Boulevard Voltaire (directly next to the Charonne metro stop to boot), this old-school restaurant serves up classic dishes using fresh ingredients — think magret de canard, tartare de boeuf, and a number of homemade desserts. Best of all, the place offers one of the largest terraces in the city, which is excellent for people-watching, and the ‘50s-inspired décor offers an instant mental escape to the Paris of yesteryear. 

Au Pied de Cochon, 6 Rue Coquillière, 75001

Fun (or not-so-fun) fact: Although most restaurants and their terraces stay open late, the majority of the city’s kitchens close relatively early, and few places actually boast a 24-hour menu — enter Au Pied de Cochon, late-night imbibers’ answer to greasy, late-night sustenance. From breakfast through dinner and everything in between (and after), this 1st arrondissement staple is a pillar for late-night dining in Paris, with hearty, traditional French brasserie fare that boasts all things pork at its center. For those staying on the eastern side of the city, the restaurant Le Rey, located next to the Voltaire metro stop, also offers 24/7 service. 

Bouillon Chartier, Numerous locations: Grands Boulevards, Montparnasse, Pigalle, République

Courtesy of Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards/Groupe JOULIE

Truthfully, I don’t know one Parisian who hasn’t indulged in the delights of Bouillon Chartier. Historically speaking, bouillons (spacious restaurants serving traditional French fare such as their namesake bouillon boils) were famous in the late 19th century, as they were best known for their large spaces, affordable food, and quick service — and Bouillon Chartier lives up to all of that. While certainly not the best food in all of Paris, the small chain’s ornate dining rooms promise to leave a lasting impression (my particular favorite is the one at Grands Boulevards), and the impressively low bill promises to keep you coming back for more. For Parisian staples (think escargots, beef bourguignon, and roast chicken) on a budget — entrées starting at 1€ and main courses starting at 7€ — this is the spot.

Astier, 44 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011

The first time I went to Astier, I was floored by the experience — though fair warning, you need to come hungry. Situated in a quaint corner location in the Folie-Méricourt neighborhood, Astier offers up well-made classics using seasonal ingredients, though a “menu” (meaning an appetizer and main course) per person is required. The kitchen can accommodate a number of dietary restrictions: For example, I went as a vegetarian and received the most beautiful pan of sautéed mushrooms, followed by a robust plate of seasonal root veggies and potatoes. Wines offered are sustainable at minimum, though most are organic/biodynamic, and the show-stopping cheese course — served directly from a wheeled cart — is not to be missed. 

The Best Neighborhood Wine Bars with Bites in Paris

Bonvivant, 7 Rue des Écoles, 75005

I don’t say this lightly, but Bonvivant is hands-down my favorite bar á vin in Paris, and I’m surprised it doesn’t find itself on more go-to lists. The space has one of the most vibrant wine offerings, robust menus, and best outdoor spaces in all of Paris. Although most of the city’s more “famous” wine bars reside on the Right Bank, this Left Bank establishment is simply legendary, especially for those with an affinity for Jura, Burgundy, and Loire Valley wines.

Dix Visions de la Joie, 80 Rue des Rigoles, 75020 

Dix Visions de la Joie is truly a local wine bar favorite — emphasis on the local. Tucked away in the 20th arrondissement, which is definitely an up-and-coming area, though closer to the 11th/canal, this hidden gem offers a sprawling terrace, a curated natural and organic wine selection, and small bites that promise to keep you satiated enough for a second bottle. I would be hard-pressed to believe you’ll find anyone but locals here, though perhaps things will change after this article! Just don’t tell too many people about this underrated treasure. 

The Best Bars and Breweries in Paris

Les Cuves de Fauves, 64 Rue de Charonne, 75011

Les Cuves de Fauves is a small craft brewery located right on the rue de Charonne, and offers a variety of 16 small-batch beers, a handful of natural wines by the glass, and delicious bites like beef tartare, goat cheese tarts, and IPA-braised pork ribs. On warmer days, communal outdoor benches can accommodate a large number of guests, and the rotating seasonal brews offer a nice reprieve from the standard 1664s and Leffes served at most brasseries. Best of all, the bar is conveniently located near a number of tourist hotspots, including Septime, Septime la Cave, Le Chardenoux, East Mamma, and more, making it a great local place to grab a quick pint before your next stop. 

Paname Brewing Company, 41 bis Quai de la Loire, 75019

Courtesy of Paname Brewing Company

Few tourists will venture up to the 19th, though a walk through this bustling arrondissement will quickly have you understanding why so many locals are moving here — and Paname Brewing Company is one of those reasons. Situated at the edge of the Bassin de la Villette, Paname first opened its doors in 2015 and has since become a staple in the neighborhood. With 16 beers on tap at all times, the brewery also doubles as a café and coworking space during the day — and secretly features some of the best bar snacks (guacamole, pizza, and fries) in the city. 

The Best Places to Picnic in Paris

Page Light Studios/iStock

Paris and picnics simply go hand in hand, though most City of Lights-bound tourists tend to head straight for the Champ de Mars — that massive grassy space in front of the Eiffel Tower. While certainly a great place to snag a view of the Tower, Paris is home to so many other local parks that tend to fall off of visitors’ radars. My personal favorite spots are Parc des Buttes-Chaumonts (be sure to grab a to-go beer at Rosa Bonheur!) or Parc Monceau, and posting up along the Canal Saint-Martin promises a much more local feel than setting up camp on the Seine.

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