Most visitors to Edinburgh spend their time crisscrossing medieval Old Town and Georgian New Town, seeing the city’s iconic sights such as Edinburgh Castle, the National Museum of Scotland, and walking down curved Victoria Street. These are all must-dos for first-time visitors, but to go beyond the tourist trail, head to the port neighborhood of Leith.
Located on the northerly edge of Edinburgh, Leith was Scotland’s main trading port in the 18th century. Instead of castles and hilly streets, you’ll find waterfront brick warehouses converted into art galleries, stylish coffee shops, and pop-up art exhibitions. There’s even more reason to visit now as the area recently debuted a new distillery, new restaurants, and a new tram connecting it with the airport as well as Edinburgh city center, making it easier to get to.
What to Do:
The nine-story Port of Leith Distillery opened in late 2023 and is impossible to miss as it towers over Leith. It’s the UK’s first vertical distillery (due to its small plot of land) and produces whiskey as well as gin at the nearby Lind and Lime. Sign up for a distillery tour or head to the top-floor bar for a whiskey and a bite of smoked mackerel pâté. The Ocean Terminal shopping center is in the midst of a refurbishment, and a highlight is the Leith Collective, which showcases items from over 200 Scottish makers including jewelry made from knitting buttons and teacup candles. Ocean Terminal is also where to access the Royal Yacht Britannia, which was used by the royal family until 1997. The elegant boat has a mid-century modern meets country estate look, and a new visitor center is in the works. Head to the Biscuit Factory for events such as fashion shows and festivals, and stroll or cycle along the 12-mile Water of Leith Walkway, which winds through the city center.
Where to Eat:
Leith is known for its seafood restaurants and charming coffee shops such as Williams & Johnson. Try The Ship on the Shore for towering seafood platters and briny oysters, and don’t miss Scottish delicacy “Arbroath smokies,” which is haddock smoked on an open fire above a whiskey barrel. Two of the newest restaurants in Leith include Brunswick Book Club, a gastro pub serving chili squid and haggis bon bons, and the fine-dining destination Dùthchas, which showcases Scottish ingredients. Michelin-starred options include Restaurant Martin Wishart (menus highlight Orkney scallops and game), and The Kitchin for “nature to plate” fare such as hand-dived Orkney scallops baked in the shell and roasted loin of Hopetoun Estate roe deer, braised neck, beetroot, and venison jus.
Where to Stay:
For something truly special, check out Fingal, Scotland’s only floating luxury hotel. Permanently berthed in Leith, this former Northern lighthouse supply ship was transformed into a 22-room boutique hotel in 2019. Nautical details include plenty of polished wood, brass, and a hammered ceiling in the ballroom that shimmers like water. On land and for the slightly more budget conscious, try Malmaison Edinburgh, which is located directly on the Leith waterfront. Originally a seaman’s mission and then a brothel, the public areas are playful with neon lights and hot pink sofas. Make time for a nightcap at the in-house Bar & Grill before heading to your room. The 100 guest rooms showcase subtle pops of plaid in a nod to its Scottish roots alongside a muted gray color palette.
When To Go:
Shoulder season (September to October and April to May) is great for a less crowded and more laid-back vibe with mild weather. Low season (November to March) might be cold and rainy but also festive and cozy, with loads of Christmas markets and the city’s legendary New Year’s (or Hogmanay) celebration. August is one of the buzziest times to visit as it coincides with the Edinburgh International Festival and can be quite busy.
How To Get Around:
The neighborhood is small enough to explore on foot and it’s the best way to see its charming cobblestoned streets.
How To Get There:
Most visitors will arrive at Edinburgh Airport. From there, take the tram directly to Leith or hop on a bus that will take you to the city center and then connect via tram, taxi, or ride share.