Discover Thessaloniki and Its New Subway Filled With Ancient Treasures

by  Rebecca Hall | Mar 10, 2025
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Thessaloniki, Greece's second-largest city, is a vibrant blend of history, culture, and modernity. Often dubbed the "Paris of Northern Greece" for its elegant boulevards and neoclassical architecture, the city seamlessly merges its ancient past with contemporary charm. With the recent launch of its long-awaited metro system, which has uncovered a wealth of archaeological treasures, public transport in Thessaloniki has become an immersive cultural experience.

With rich Byzantine, Ottoman, and Jewish influences, a thriving culinary scene recognized by UNESCO, and stunning sea views stretching toward Mount Olympus, Thessaloniki rewards every visitor.

What to See and Do

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Over 20 years in the making, Thessaloniki's ultra-modern, driverless metro (which launched in November 2024) is more than just transportation — it's a gateway to the city's rich history. Platforms are more than 100 feet (30 meters) underground, and there are 13 stations, with six more planned by 2026. A single ride costs €0.60, and a daily ticket is €2.50 (about the same in USD). 

Yet what sets it apart is its role as an underground museum: When the metro was constructed, ancient streets, Roman baths, and Byzantine ruins were revealed, telling the story of the city's layered past. For example, it's possible to see a Roman-era street with the remains of public baths, shops, and intricate mosaics preserved in situ — in its original location and visible beneath glass floors and elevated viewing platforms.

Among the must-visit stations are:

Venizelou Station: Located opposite the 15th-century Bedesten Agora, Venizelou is a historical marvel. It houses remnants of Thessaloniki's main street from the Late Roman and Early Byzantine periods — including the renowned Mese Odos, Greek for "main street" and the main avenue of the city during Byzantine times, complete with public baths and ancient shops. Travelers don't even need a ticket to view these archaeological finds as they can be found before the station gates. 

Agias Sofias Station: Agias Sofias is another important stop revealing centuries-old ruins and offering a glimpse into the city's religious and civic evolution. During construction, two Byzantine-era squares were uncovered — one to the north and one to the south of central Egnatia Street. The northern square — likely a gathering space for commercial and social gatherings — has been transformed into an open-air archaeological site with a wooden pedestrian bridge that allows visitors to enjoy an unobstructed view of the ancient ruins, such as parts of a sophisticated draining system that indicates the advanced urban planning of the time. There are also sections of a Roman-era road and the foundations of buildings from the 3rd to 4th century A.D.  Coins, pottery, and tools from everyday Byzantine life were also unearthed and are on display at the National Archaeological Museum.  

While you can easily explore the stations and their treasures on your own, Thessaloniki Walking Tours are another option for exploring the city's time capsule.

If the metro hasn't satiated your thirst for historical artifacts, the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki houses items from prehistoric times to the late Roman period. Showcasing golden wreaths, intricate mosaics, and a collection of Macedonian tomb relics plus smaller relics such as pottery items — unearthed during the metro creation — it offers insights into the region's ancient civilizations.

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Another historical must-see is The Rotunda. Built as a Roman temple and serving as a church, mosque, and museum, it's a symbol of the city's diverse heritage. 

The World War I Mikra British Cemetery is the largest in the Balkans, and a solemn site offering a poignant glimpse into Thessaloniki's role in 20th-century conflicts. In 1915 the city was a strategic military base for the Allied Forces and the headquarters for the Allied Salonika Front — a major campaign against Bulgarian and German forces in the Balkans. As the city had a major port and rail infrastructure, it became a crucial logistics hub supplying the front lines, again used as such during World War II, when the city was occupied by Nazi Germany between 1941 and 1944.

For a taste of Thessaloniki, explore the city's bustling food markets and street food scene with Eat and Walk Food Tour, a guided experience highlighting Thessaloniki's diverse influences, from Armenian pastries to Pontian Black Sea flavors. Among other delights, you'll sample koulouri, a sesame-covered bread ring, and bougatsa, Thessaloniki's famous breakfast pastry brought by immigrants from Asia Minor — modern-day Turkey — in the 1920s and featuring flaky filo dough filled with cream and topped with cinnamon.

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Spend some time wandering around the three closed historical markets of Kapani (the city’s oldest market dating back to the Ottoman period of the late 1400s); Modiano (built between 1922 and 1925 by Eli Modiano, a Jewish architect from Thessaloniki); and Athonos (which dates back to the 19th century when it started selling textiles). All offer everything from Greek cheeses and meats to artisanal sweets and traditional delicacies such as the aforementioned bougatsa, as well as revani, a semolina cake soaked in syrup with variations including coconut or almonds, and glyka tou koutaliou, preserved fruits in syrup that include figs, sour cherries, bergamot, and quince.

Just 15 minutes outside the city center, Polis Hammam-Polis Loutron allows visitors to indulge in a warm marble hammam, deep exfoliation, fragrant olive soap massage, and traditional Turkish delight with tea.

For oenophiles, Ktima Kir-Yianni Winery in Naoussa, 1.5 hours by car from Thessaloniki, is an excellent day trip. Spanning 143 acres, the winery produces 220,000 bottles annually, mainly from the Xinomavro grape variety. Enjoy wine-pairing menus and cellar tours featuring French and American oak barrels.

Where to Eat

Courtesy of ON Residence

Thessaloniki's food scene, designated a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2021, is a melting pot of Greek, Ottoman, Armenian, Balkan, and Jewish influences.

Olympos Naoussa, the signature restaurant of ON Residence Hotel, blends classic Greek flavors with modern techniques. Try their elevated take on moussaka, which uses slow-cooked minced veal or lamb rather than standard beef, giving it a richer flavor.

In Ladadika, one of the city’s most historic districts — the name derived from the Greek word ladi, meaning "oil" as it was once the city’s primary center for olive oil trade — the cobbled streets and neoclassical buildings house some of Thessaloniki’s best tavernas and bars. Near the port side of Ladadika is Trofi, a local favorite that specializes in small dishes such as pan-tossed shrimp and potato terrine with graviera cream.

Marea Sea Spirit is the place to go for excellent seafood (in fact, it's all they have on their extensive menu). Don't miss their white taramasalata dip (salted and cured roe) with homemade bread. (Tip: Authentic taramasalata is white, never pink.)

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Housed in a three-story, 1926 red mansion, The Red House offers meze-style dining (ordering many smaller dishes to share rather than one dish each) in an opulent setting. Their stuffed vine leaves filled with minced beef or a vegetarian mix of rice, onion, herbs, and olive served with a side of yogurt sauce are a must-try.

Greek cuisine is mainly meze style, but if it’s larger individual dishes you’re looking to try, head to Rouga, located in the city center. Their chicken fillet with sour cream, cognac, mushrooms, and yellow cheese sauce is delicious.

For a hit of caffeine, Rio de Janeiro Coffee Roasters is an independent store that makes specialty brews on-site. Watch the owner grind the beans, creating personalized variants of flavors and strengths.

Where to Stay

Courtesy of Rebecca Hall

Bahar Boutique Hotel is located in a historical building in the center of the city, and was once used for spice storage (hence the play on the name, as "Bahariki" means spices in Greek). This four-star, family-owned property features original stone walls and just 18 cozy rooms over four floors. Their Sebil Bar serves a tasty breakfast and a range of unique beverages such as the Sebil cappuccino, which is made with a cinnamon stick, orange peel, and grated bitter chocolate, and the Dodulac cocktail — a vodka-based drink with chili bought from the many local spice shops found on Emporio Square, just a short walk away in the Ladadika District. 

Courtesy of ON Residence

ON Residence is housed in a gorgeous neo-classical building designed by Greek-Jewish architect Jacques Mosse and built in 1926. Its Belle Époque style stands out on the coastal promenade of the city. After a three-decade hiatus, the hotel was completely renovated in 2022 and reborn as a luxurious seafront property (and a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World). Its 60 rooms and suites, many with balconies and sea views of the Thermaic Gulf, offer a perfect mix of elegance and contemporary amenities.

How to Get There

Thessaloniki International Airport is served by a variety of European cities that offer direct flights. From the U.S., you will need to fly over Athens or another major European hub. Thessaloniki is 25 minutes from the airport by taxi (€25) or an hour by bus (€2). The metro does not yet extend to the airport.

The Best Time to Visit

Thessaloniki enjoys a Mediterranean climate, making it a year-round destination. The best times to visit are spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is milder and the city is less crowded. Note, though, that due to the city's northerly location, November can start to get cold, so pack layers. Summer offers a vibrant nightlife and the opportunity to relax at the nearby Halkidiki beaches, though humidity averages 66% year-round, making summer nights a bit sticky.

Combine With

Since flying over Athens is almost inevitable, add a couple of days in the Greek capital to see "the cradle of Western civilization." Explore the iconic Acropolis, home to the Parthenon and breathtaking city views, and stroll through the picturesque Plaka neighborhood, which is filled with appealing streets, traditional tavernas, and local shops. Visit the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum to dive deeper into Greece's rich past.

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