MS Nordlys | ShermansTravel

Cruises don't get more practical than those aboard the Hurtigruten fleet. Like her sister ships, MS Nordlys delivers cargo and passengers to tiny towns above the Arctic Circle while simultaneously catering to tourists who come to see the majestic fjords. With down-to-earth trips for a luxury price, the company attracts a clientele that craves authentic Norwegian simplicity.

MS Nordlys was refurbished in 2019 and now offers a choice of three restaurants (although you’ll pay extra to enjoy the a la carte option, Kysten), as well as a cozy Explorer Lounge, a sauna and aft hot tubs.

What We Love

Fish at Every Meal: The main dining room offers Nordic standards like cold-water fish for breakfast — lots of it — as well as for lunch and dinner. But the room is so intimate that servers will learn your name.

Northern Lights: The long, dark nights of Arctic autumn and spring make for spectacular views of the green, red, and yellow magnetic light show known as aurora borealis, the dawn of the North.

Best Known For

Fjordland: The Arctic circuit is all function and efficiency until you reach Geirangerfjord. The daylong detour into the heart of these imposing cliffs allows passengers to appreciate how little else there is to do aboard but sit and watch the wonders of the North Sea.

Who It's Best For

Grown-Ups: This is your grandfather’s cruise. There are no midnight buffets or onboard entertainment, and no one dresses for dinner. Bring a book.

Don't Say We Didn't Warn You

Minimalism Runs Amok: Scandinavian simplicity can be spare, but Nordlys’ staterooms are understated even by Nordic standards. Cabins are small and dormlike. They're practical, not plush.

Sarah Rose

Deal Expert / Travel Blogger

Sarah Rose writes the Dynasties column for The Wall Street Journal and is author of “For All the Tea in China: How England Stole the World’s Favorite Drink and Changed History” (Viking/Penguin). She also writes for The Wall Street Journal, Robb Report, and Departures and won a 2014 Lowell Thomas Award for her work in Outside. Rose is currently working on her second book and intends to spend a lot of time researching aboard cruise ships.